Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Our European Adventure

Well, I’m finally home. Sleeping in the airport was pretty strange. In the middle of the night, a guy sleeping across the bench from us apparently took the orange juice we had brought with us and started drinking it. Madeline woke up though and saw that he had it, so he put the cap back down, set it down on his chair, and left. It was really strange. Why didn’t he just take it with him?

Eventually we checked in for our flight and finally boarded. It was a rather uneventful trip back to Philly. I slept the whole way, apparently with my eyes creepily open.

In Philly, we left one by one after we spent the school money on lunch and got through the long wait in customs. My plane was delayed about an hour leaving Philly though because they switched our gate and then our plane and then the gate again because our original plane needed maintenance. It was annoying, but thankfully I was able to still get home within twenty minutes of when I was originally supposed to land. Just the same, I don’t ever want to fly US Airways again.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 15

I felt like we woke up at the crack of dawn this morning because I had trouble sleeping last night. It was really already 6:30, but still, that’s incredibly early. We packed up our things, checked out of the hostel, and headed over to the train station to purchase some snacks for lunch before finding the platform for our first train of the day.

Immediately upon stepping on the train, we realized the difference it the older trains we’ve been taking for the rest of the trip and sleek, faster express trains that we took today. Instead of private cabins of six, today’s trains featured airplane-like seating only roomier with a table every few seats. The dining car was also more luxe.

The inside of the first express train - they looked the same
We toiled away the train rides by playing cards, reading, and sleeping. The switch between trains was a pretty high stress event though because our first train ended up getting stuck working its way around construction and we were running about twenty minutes behind. Originally, we had only had about twenty minutes to make our connection in Frankfurt’s Main station. However, our train pulled in two minutes before the second left and we would have needed to run across the station. People sitting in our train car persuaded us to wait until the next stop because they said our second train would be there also, but on the same platform. Luckily, they were right and we stepped off one train and directly on to the next. I did have to kick someone out of our seats though because he thought we weren’t coming we didn’t get on at the right stop.

After we settled in and a round of cards was played, we ordered our lunch from the dining car. I ended up getting a hot ham and cheese sandwich with chocolate cake and an ice cream bar for desert. It was actually really good. I’m surprised at the quality of the food that they sell on those trains. It was really easy to find something on the menu that I would like too.

We pulled into the Amsterdam station about half past four and put our luggage in storage lockers before adventuring into the city. We didn’t have anything specific to do, so after exchanging currency (for a really crappy rate, it would have been cheaper to do at the airport), we wandered throughout the souvenir shops looking for things to spend our money on. I ended up buying quite the collection of things, including a change purse, scarf, t-shirt, calendar and mug. I’m happy with the purchases that I couldn’t make as freely before because I didn’t have a credit card after it was stolen.

We found a Argentinean steak restaurant for dinner. The service was so slow and, while the meat was gigantic, it wasn’t that great tasting. It might not have been the best meal but Madeline and I definitely agreed the bread with garlic and butter sauce was really good. We made sure to order a second round.

Since the restaurant didn’t have a very big drink selection, we decided to get chips at a Mexican restaurant after dinner and try out their cocktail menu. We ended up making friends with the bartender, Victor and he gave us a few free sample drinks. I didn’t really like his mixing as much as everyone else, but maybe I just ordered the wrong things. They just all tasted rather strong to me and I wasn’t in the mood for that. Then Matt, Ben, and Madeline went back to the train station to wait for the next train while I sat outside a McDonald’s and stole their WiFi.

The four of us cheering to Victor's specialty on our last night in Amsterdam - notice Matt looks better today
We took the 12:45 train to the airport and we’ve been waiting there ever since in the downstairs area. Not getting a hotel was a good choice, but at the same time, I’m kind of tired.

Monday, August 15, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 14

I slept in this morning because we didn’t really have anything to do today. Once I woke up, I went downstairs to use the internet and wait for everyone else to wake up.


I got bored after awhile and tried to go souvenir shopping, but I found out that it was a bank holiday today and pretty much every place around town was closed except for the places in the train station, restaurants, and hotels. I ended up just going back to the room and, since the rest of them were up by then, we went out on a mission to find a pharmacy that sold a thermometer for Matt. We weren’t successful though because apparently pharmacies close on bank holidays in Europe too.

We did manage to find a nice steak restaurant on our jaunt around town. We ended up eating at the Marriott’s restaurant. Ben and I had steak, fries, and wine, while Madeline had fish. On the way back to the hotel, we picked up orange juice and water for Matt. We spent some time in the hostel room after and I sorted through the receipts for the trip and put them in date order.

The inside of the restaurant - it was pretty swanky


The cute bowls they delivered our dipping sauces in

My huge, delicious steak

At 2 o’clock, we walked over to the main train station to go on our Hop-On Hop-Off Sightseeing Tour. It was actually really lame though because the bus never really stopped long enough to take pictures and we weren’t exactly interested in any of the sights or the places it stopped. It was also really crowded. I wanted to get off in the shopping district, but everything was closed because of the bank holiday. We did get off on the fifth stop though and visited the Hard Rock Café of Munich. We had some appetizers and drinks that came in souvenir mugs we got to keep and since we spent over 30 Euros we were able to get Matt a free luggage tag as his souvenir.









Our fruity drinks at the Hard Rock
Stuffed after our appetizers, we went back to the hotel and napped. When we woke up, we decided to go out to dinner at a steak restaurant we found a few blocks away. Unfortunately, the steak restaurant didn't serve much else so Madeline ended up needing to compromise on her choice in food. I'm just glad that I managed to persuade them away from ethnic food on this trip. I would prefer to eat either familiar foods or native foods when travelling. It seems safer, especially when one of us is already suffering from a strange food poisoning/stomach flu mixture.

Our dinner steak, notice the size difference


Sunday, August 14, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 13

Today I woke up before everyone else because I was able to go to bed early – at eleven – for once. It was really nice to actually get a full night’s sleep, so I got up at nine to take a shower and walk around town. I forgot it was Sunday though, so nothing was really open. I did find a breakfast place though that Ben and I ended up going to after I walked back to the hostel and noticed that he had come downstairs as well. I had a croissant and he had a chocolate croissant with a sandwich. I got some orange juice to so that I could combat this sickness everyone seems to be getting. Matt threw up last night a couple of times. I think he has the flu, so I have flu germs to combat on top of the ones Madeline and Ben were passing around for the cold.


I sat downstairs and listened to Daniel subbing on EMU’s radio station while I waited for the rest of them to get up and ready. Ben came down with cards and we watched a bunk of drunk guys in morph suit tuxedos recant their nights and generally act crazy. They were visiting for a bachelor party and woke up just in time for 11 o’clock check out so they ended up spraying themselves with an axe-like body spray (mouth included) and using hair conditioner on their armpits and crotches while congregating in the hostel lobby. It was an entertaining, yet disgusting scene.

After I was done listening to the radio show, we walked over to the train station and bought pretzels and water before checking in for our tour of Dachau Concentration Camp. This camp was different than the others we have visited because it was completely rebuilt and actually looked nice. Our guide explained that everything had been replanted because the camp was considered a cemetery and it was done in respect. However, I think it took away from the memorial part of the camp because while there were three churches on the site it looked much too pretty to be a place where so many people were killed. The atmosphere was just very different throughout the whole camp, or maybe we’re just getting used to visiting them.

A monument remembering all of the different types of people who were persecuted

The camp walkway - notice the nice greenery

Inside one of the churches at the memorial

A gravestone for the ashes found after the camp's liberation
We had ice creams at the café and found Matt where he was resting before hopping back on the bus to the city. We were able to find orange juice and some crackers to calm Matt’s stomach before resting in the room.

I put on a dress and at sixthirty we headed out in search of a fancy dinner to spend the rest of the school’s money now that we are getting near the end of our trip. We settled on the Park Café within a botanical garden. Matt stayed in the hostel while we went out because he still wasn’t feeling good. Ben and I were able to get steaks and Madeline fish while we all sampled drinks from the lengthy cocktail menu.

Our drink choices - mine's a strawberry colada
After dinner, we got ice cream down the street from our hostel and then I decided to go downstairs and try to get internet again. It didn’t work so I ended up talking to a group of Germans who were visiting from Cologne. We were talking all about the language barrier.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 12

After getting ready this morning and taking some bread from breakfast for sandwiches on the train, we headed over to the main train station and found our platform. The train was there before us so we were able to board right away. It was strange though because when we found our seats, other people were already in them. Some elders had just sat down in our seat. They moved, but it was still weird.

We sat down in our cabin with two Canadians who have been travelling around Europe for about the same amount of time as us. We talked about where we had been and things like that for awhile before napping. I got woken up though because Matt and Ben decided to play cards practically on top of me as I didn’t want to give up my window seat so they could use the tray tables.

The train ride was about six hours. During that time, I wandered all over the train investigating the dining cart and finding the only remaining bathroom with toilet paper. Madeline played her ukulele and Ben and Matt played numerous card games with the other people in our cabin.

Czech "fairy cakes" - my train feast
Disko - a shortbread cookie with cookie frosting inside, similar to a backwards Oreo
When we finally got to Munich, I had us turn the wrong way out of the train station and we walked a little bit out of our way before finding our hostel – Jaeger’s Hostel. The place is fairly nice. You get a shot of Jaeger after checking in, but none of us took ours. The internet connection is really spotty all over the hostel though and I couldn’t get my computer to connect at all. My phone worked though for some reason.

They showered and napped when we got in while I worked on the budget and then we went out to dinner at a nicer place down the street for burgers, pasta, chicken, and drinks. I had this fantastic chocolate ice cream desert that was actually really cheap, just under 4 euros.

The fantastic dinner at 35mm
Followed by a perfectly chocolatey desert
After dinner, Matt and Ben wanted to nap some more, so I went back over to the main train station and wandered around by myself. I found some souvenirs and bought a cone of fries that looked good. I even found a UK version of Cosmo, which is great because I’ve been looking for one during this whole trip. I didn’t get to go to any of the souvenir shops outside of the train station because they had all closed by the time I was done.

When I came back, Madeline was at the bar in our hostel ordering a drink, so we decided to hang out downstairs for awhile and watch the people staying here make drunken fools of themselves. This hostel is pretty rowdy on the main floor, but thankfully it’s nice and quiet near our room.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 11

We woke up to a sunny morning in Prague today. After eating breakfast and getting ready, Madeline, Matt, and I headed over to Wenceslas Square to take pictures of the architecture and visit the neighboring Old Town Square that we didn't get a chance to visit yesterday. Ben decided to stay at the hostel because he felt rather sick from the cold he caught earlier this week from Madeline.


A house near our hostel
After wandering throughout the squares, we managed to get yelled at for standing on the grass to take pictures of the opera house, so we decided it was time to cross the river and attempt to find the Prague Castle.
The opera house
In order to cross the river, we used the bridge across from St. Charles so we could photograph the old landmark. We then wandered through the souvenir shops near the main tourist street and were able to find some nice items. Madeline wanted to panhandle on the busy street, so we left her singing and playing her ukulele while we tried to find the castle. It turned out to be at the top of the hill and we bought tickets for the short tour, meaning we were able to tour the castle, the basilica, and the cathedral.

St. Charles bridge

The outside of the cathedral on Prague Castle grounds
After dinner, Matt said he wanted to take a thirty minute nap so after purchasing some snacks for the train ride tomorrow, we went back to the hostel. However, instead of napping, he decided to play cards. I told everyone we should leave at seven so that I had time to take pictures with my non-flash camera before it got dark. When seven rolled around, no one was ready to leave, so I decided to strike out on my own.

I found my way to Petrin Hill and was sad to see all of the attractions closed after I got off the funicular. I was able to walk around and take pictures of the mini eiffel tower, but it wasn't the same. I wish I could have gone during the day. The same goes for my visit to the Fred Astaire Dancing House immediately after, but at least I got to see it. I stopped at a grocery store afterward and bought some fruit before making my way back to the hostel.

The mini Eiffel tower

A terrible picture of the dancing house

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 10

The train ride last night was much too short. We didn’t get to catch up on enough sleep before waking up in Prague, but it was also nice not to have to sit on a train all day, even if the bunks were kind of hard and the cabin next door was kind of loud.

After rolling off the train, we immediately noticed the cultural differences in Prague. Instead of selling public transportation tickets in a conventional spot such as the tourist information office, they sold them in a convenience store-type setting. It was really peculiar and I think we might have been uncharged for the tickets that they sold us, but hey, I’m not complaining.

We exited the train station and managed to locate first the metro and then the bus that we were supposed to take to get to our hostel. We arrived just before eight o’clock and, since it was too early to check-in, we stored our luggage and helped ourselves to the free breakfast before getting directions to Wenceslas Square where we were supposed to meet our tour group to Terezin.

We ended up arriving just on time after getting turned around on the metro, but it was okay because our bus got stuck in traffic and ended up showing up about twenty minutes late. We piled on with our tour guide and a large group of Spanish-speaking tourists and elderly Americans for the forty-minute bus ride and promptly fell asleep, much to the dismay of our guide.

On our way to Terezin
Once reaching the city of Terezin (Theresienstadt), our driver dropped us off at the fortresses inside the ghetto. Prior to World War II, these buildings were used as protection against the Prussians, so they were actually much nicer conditions than we saw at Auschwitz yesterday. There were actual toilets, albeit not nearly enough, in the rooms and the bunks weren’t as crowded together. The dorm-style rooms even had tables and coat racks in them, although I’m not quite sure why with as little as the prisoners were fed.

While walking through the former camp, our guide explained to us that many of the prisoners at the camp had been convinced Terezin was somewhat of a Jewish spa. The Nazis had succeeded in filming a great deal of propaganda for the Red Cross, German citizens, and Jewish people before the camp fully expanded. This meant that some wealthy Jews actually paid to get to Terezin because they were expecting it to be a spa-like place where Jews could live together without problems, similar to Israel.

Inside the small fortress
 In addition to be the center of the propaganda concentration camp movement, Terezin was used as a transit camp and a holding camp for the elderly. While many of the prisoners over 65 died within Terezin, others were simply shipped to another camp to be used as laborers and died in transit. Very few would survive the long, cramped journey to another camp that could take anywhere from two days to two weeks without food or water. To sum up our visit within the fortresses, we were able to watch a video that contained some of the propaganda used to lure people to the camp and convince others that Terezin was a good thing.

On our way back to the bus, we walked through a small Jewish and Catholic cemetery – the sections separated by a cement walkway – and saw the graves of the first people to die at Terezin. Not long after the camp opened though, the Nazis realized that burying the dead was inefficient and might spread disease due to the large amounts of groundwater in the soil. To prevent this spread, a crematorium was built to cremate (a highly offensive act to the Jews) the dead. We were able to walk through the remains of this building that also contained operating tables to perform autopsies and fictionalize the results so that no one outside the camp would realize the Jews weren’t dying from natural causes. While the crematorium was being built though, the Nazis continued to bury the dead next to the building and that is why there is a Jewish cemetery sitting next to it.
The small cemetary outside the fortresses
The crematorium
Our last stop on the tour of Terezin was in the center of town, which was the center of the former ghetto. Our guide informed us that most of the buildings we saw were also in existence during World War II. From the looks of it, the ghetto conditions had to have been much better than we've seen within the camps. We were told that the ghetto prisoners lived in dorm-style housing where they were separated by first age and then nationality. Today, the town is populated by Czechs who run businesses in the place where thousands of Jews suffered for years during the war. A Jewish Historical museum commemorates this suffering and we were able to pay the exhibit a visit. Unfortunately, due to our tired nature, we didn't absorb much, but after wandering through the exhibits Madeline did get in trouble for napping in the reception area.

The streets of Terezin
Our bus brought us back to Wenceslas Square in Prague and we were able to do some souvenir shopping before stopping for lunch in a Mediterranean eatery called Akropolis. Since the Czech koruna is about 17 korunas to $1, we had the opportunity to eat a nearly 700 koruna meal. Seeing that number on the bill is definitely a shock. It’s amazing to think it barely equals $40. It’s hard to remember to translate the number every time you look at a price tag.


I stopped at a Bankomat ATM while we were walking around and was able to withdrawal some cash because it seems like a lot of the places in Prague, restaurants included, don't take credit cards. However, when I went to take my card back from the machine, it wouldn't let me. I had to go into the attached bank and ask for my card back. The man working proceeded to call my bank and tell me that I was "lucky" he didn't have a specific reason to hold onto my card. He proceeded to photocopy the card and make me sign a paper saying I got it back. The whole experience was a ridiculous waste of time and made me rather angry. I found myself offended that he would suggest I was doing something wrong when merely trying to withdrawal cash. I'll certainly never be using a bankomat machine again. Worst atm experience ever

We located the Old-New Synagogue within the Jewish quarter after lunch and looked at the exhibits that pretty much covered the information we’ve seen in every other Jewish museum on this tour. I’m starting to think all of the Jewish museums need to get together so they can try and come up with some original information, or at least present it in a new way. Czech Jews aren’t that much different from Polish Jews or German Jews or Dutch Jews from the sounds of it.

Exhausted, we stumbled back to the hostel and were able to check in to our nice room. Hostel Elf has a definite community feel that none of the places we’ve stayed in so far has had. It’s a nice change. However, we do miss our private bathroom. We took naps before going out to a nicer restaurant/bar up the street for a shared pizza and drinks. Madeline, Matt, and Ben were able to try locally-brewed Czech beers and Matt and I tried 140 proof absinthe before heading back to the hostel.

Matt's fruit salad chaser
Our huge room in the hostel


The hallway outside our room
We made friends with the other guests while watching a game of jenga and Matt, Ben, and Madeline played cards with a group who understood English and knew how to play the same game as them.

Our European Adventure, Day 9


Today went surprisingly smooth. Shortly before seven we boarded our train in Warsaw after Madeline noticed we were waiting on the wrong platform. We were able to get to the right one at the same time our train pulled in and joined our two Polish-speaking cabinmates. After sleeping most of the train ride, one of the girls was able to indicate the correct station in Krakow where we were supposed to get off.

A free cookie we received on the morning train
The Krakow station was under construction, but we easily navigated our way to the bus station and, after getting directions to the proper bay, we located a bus to take us to Oswiecim and at a rate cheaper than I had planned.

Following the eighty minute, 10 zloty bus ride, we ambled through Auschwitz's parking lot and were able to eat our prepacked lunches in the cafeteria. We then purchased an English-guided tour in the camp office and stored our luggage.

The Polish countryside from our bus window
The guide led us through Auschwitz I, explaining that Auschwitz is actually just the German name for the Polish town of Oswiecim. She informed us that the camp's first prisoners were the Polish individuals who lived in the wrong place at the wrong time. These people and the captured Jews were forced to build the second camp, Auschwitz-Birkenau II, nearby.

While being guided through the camp, we saw various bunkers that had been turned into exhibits showcasing things such as the human hair collected from prisoners to be used in German trade as well as bunkers in their original form. We were also able to tour the reconstructed gas chambers in the first camp.


Inside Auschwitz I

A collection of shoes from Auschwitz prisoners, held in Canada I (the collection point for belongings)

The gate to the camp
A gate to Auschwitz-Birkenau II

"The gate it like a mouth ready to swallow the prisoners, so menacing and eerie," Madeline Miguel.
 The visit was emotionally taxing and the 1.3km walk back to the train station was a welcome relief from the sights and smells of the camp.

As our last meal in Poland, we were able to dine at a nice Polish restaurant called the Scorpion. The menu had meals such as steak and salmon at rock bottom prices, so we made sure to order the fancy meal that we haven't been able to afford in previous destinations. We even went for the specialty desert -- The Scorpion.
Salmon at dinner
Our steak dinner

The flaming Scorpion deserts we ordered

After dinner, we killed time in the small, cold train station (all of South Poland seems really cold for that matter) before boarding our 11:31pm train to Prague.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Our European Adventure, Day 8

This morning we got up fairly early so that we could walk around Warsaw and find some of the remnants of its lively Jewish past. Before World War II, Warsaw was approximately 10% Jewish - one of the highest concentrations of Jews in Europe.

We started the day off at the Jewish Historical Institute where we were able to see a movie detailiing the Jewish sufferings within the Warsaw Ghetto. The ghetto was decimated following its liberation, but during its time, hundreds of Jews died each month, mainly from starvation or yellow fever. After viewing the video, we were able to walk around the museum and look at memoriabilia and artwork that has been donated to the organization.

The inside of a mock synagogue in the Jewish Historical Institute
After leaving, we walked to old Warsaw. This part of the city is technically not much older than the rest because nearly all of Warsaw was torn apart during the war, but it was rebuilt to pre-war standards and looks very much like a picturesque European city. We dined near the river at a small outdoor restaurant on the tourist strip that served a variety of pasta, soup, and breakfast foods. Following the meal, we stopped in the tourist information center to purchase souveneirs in the local currency, zloty.

Madeline inside a church near old Warsaw

Our Polish lunch - ham and cheese toast


We strolled around this part of the city and its small alleyways and courtyards for about an hour because we thought we were getting closer to our next destination, the Jewish Cemetary. However, it turned out we were on the other side of town. When we finally located the cemetary, we each paid the entrance fee and were able to wander around a cemetary overloaded with gravestones. Matt noticed that a large amount of the gravestones in one section would all be from the same family and they would all have the same, or about the same, death date - during World War II. It was an awful realization and a very sobering place to spend the afternoon.

Old Warsaw


Me at the Jewish Cemetary

All of the gravestones were packed close together
After the graveyard was thoroughly explored, we strolled down the street to visit the memorial of Umschlagplatz - the sight where Jews were gathered to be shuttled like cattle to Treblinka, a nearby extermination camp. Many prisoners inside the Warsaw ghetto met this fate because the Nazis offered food rewards to Jewish volunteers willing to be transferred to the site.

We attempted to find the site of Mila 18 afterward, but were unable to locate the monument commemorating those who died in the bunker under the house located at Mila 18 during the Warsaw Uprising of World War II. Since we couldn't ask for directions to the monument as most people we encountered today did not speak English, we headed back to the train station near our hotel to purchase groceries for tomorrow's lunch and then the hotel for a little rest before dinner.

We ate a restaurant inside the train station called Il Patio and followed the meal up with some ice cream from a stand outside the restaurant before heading back to the hotel. Tomorrow we have to get up early to catch our train, so we're calling it an early night.